I’ve driven past this spot along highway 14 in Larimer County, Colorado so many times my memories are worn. It’s private property but can be easily viewed from a pullout along the road. Close to the Cache la Poudre River, it’s another great abandoned place in Colorado.
I’m assuming the name is derived from Kinnikinnick and refers to both the plant (bearberry) and a mixture of dried leaves, bark, and sometimes tobacco, historically used for smoking by Native Americans and pioneers. I don’t know for sure but it does make sense.
I find the name to be quite appealing, as my daughter’s name is Nicole and she goes by “Nic” most of the time, so when I’m driving through this area, I always think of my daughter in fond terms.
Kinikinik is not a ghost town in the traditional sense of a completely abandoned settlement, but rather a small, unincorporated community in western Larimer County, Colorado. It is located along State Highway 14 in the upper Poudre Canyon, west of Fort Collins and on the east side of Cameron Pass.
While not a bustling town, Kinikinik still has some remaining structures that hint at its past, primarily centered around what was known as the Kinikinik Store and Resort. This establishment, built around 1901 from lodgepole logs, served travelers and tourists in the Poudre Canyon for several decades.
It survived the 2020 Cameron Peak Wildfire with little to no damage, which was a minor miracle in itself, as the fire burned in and around this area causing great devastation.
Here’s what I know about the history of Kinikinik:
- Early Ranching: The area was initially a ranch around 1885, owned by Charles Andrews, who raised Shetland ponies. The unusual name “Kinikinik” is believed to come from the Native American word for a low-lying, creeping evergreen plant found in the region. It’s also notable for being one of the longest palindromic place names in the United States and the world.
- The Kinikinik Resort: In 1901, Captain Charles Williams, who enjoyed fishing and hosting guests more than ranching, took over the ranch. Sometime in the 1920s, he established a resort on the south side of the canyon road, building a store and guest cabins from the logs transported down the mountainside.
- A Stop for Travelers: The Kinikinik Store became a vital stop for those traveling through the Poudre Canyon. It offered provisions, a place to mail letters, and, during the early to mid-1900s, even gasoline. Tourists could rent cabins for overnight stays. The resort’s slogan was reportedly “Where Hospitality is Religion.”
- Post-World War II Decline: Following World War II, a gasoline shortage reportedly impacted the resort. By the 1950s, the Kinikinik Resort had closed for good.
- Remaining Structures: Today, the deteriorating store and some of the guest cabins still stand, offering a glimpse into the past. While the gas pumps are gone, the buildings remain a landmark along Highway 14.
- Local Life: Even during its more active years, Kinikinik was a small community, primarily consisting of the store, a few neighboring summer resorts, and vacation homes. Activities in the area centered around fishing in the Cache la Poudre River and hiking in the Roosevelt National Forest.
- A Dream That Never Materialized: There was a grander vision for Kinikinik. In 1915, an architect’s sketch for a 150-room “Roaring Forks Hotel” was created by Captain Williams, but this ambitious project never came to fruition.
So, while you won’t find a completely deserted town with crumbling buildings lining empty streets, Kinikinik holds a history as a small but significant stop along the scenic Poudre Canyon, with the remnants of its store and resort still visible today. Its unique name and the story of its past make it an interesting point of local history in northern Colorado.
